Day 17: San Francisco to Santa Cruz. Trip total: 1968km

I had a nice relaxing couple of days off in San Francisco which helped replenish my energy and gave my aches and pains time to fade away. Unfortunately I undid most of that good work by staying out late last night and having too much to drink. I had a good time in San Fran so it was almost worth the hangover ride this morning. Almost.

I watched a whale playing out in the water at Half Moon Bay this morning, unfortunately my gopro doesn't zoom so the video doesn't really capture it.

I recovered from my hangover by the time I rolled into Santa Cruz. I plan to spend some time at the beach before packing it in for the night.

Santa Cruz

On schedule for Big Sur tomorrow!

Day 16: Bodega Dunes to San Francisco. Trip total: 1843km

I've decided to take two days off. I'm four days ahead of schedule so I need to burn some time, and more importantly, I'm suffering a bit of mental fatigue.

Yesterday's ride wasn't challenging until I hit San Francisco. It took me predominantly through farmland lightly dotted with a few small towns. My only concern was staying hydrated under the glaring sun, but I was well stocked with water so that was never a problem.

My relief at finally entering San Francisco was replaced with exhaustion as I had to navigate another 13km of climbing up and down incredibly steap hills within the city to get to my destination. Fortunately my destination was a buddy's place, and he's graciously offered to host me for the next couple of days so I can kill some time and regroup.

Leaving Bodega

Sheep

Closest pic I could get of Golden Gate Bridge

Fog was not helping with the view

Officially entering San Francisco

Day 15: Manchester Beach to Bodega Dunes. Trip total 1719km

There was very little between Manchester Beach and Bodega Dunes except open pastures so I had to take advantage of any little gas station or general store that popped up to keep my fuel replenished. Otherwise I enjoyed a nice boring ride in the morning with the cows and (mostly) sunshine.

In the afternoon the two-lane number 1 highway with no shoulder and infrequent guardrails decided to test my vertigo and steering ability by sending me up and down switchbacks for several kilometres right along a cliff edge. It was more than a little nerve-racking. I kept thinking about how I meant to switch out my brake pads because they felt like they might be losing traction. I was thinking about how I haven't tightened up my wheel skewers in a while, or how I've noticed my gears starting to skip around if I'm going fast over uneven surfaces. I was thinking how I can't see what's on the road beyond that next curve.

I was thinking of all the things that could send me flying in a split second over the side off the cliff and there wasn't a thing I could about any of them (aside from walking my bike, which wasn't gonna happen).

Anyway, I survived, and it was worth it for the incredible views...

Leaving Manchester Beach, into the unknown...

Yup, that just goes straight down

Gulp

We survived

Day 14: Fort Bragg to Manchester. Trip total: 1600km

Looking at the countless little hills I had ahead of me today, I overestimated how tiring the ride would be.

The weather was sunny and cool, perfect for riding. I arrived in Manchester KOA much earlier and fresher than anticipated, and rightfully should have pressed on to Bodega Bay, tomorrow's destination. However, I'm realizing a little scheduling problem. Thanks to Comic Con, I can't actually afford to get to San Diego early because I have no chance of securing accommodations earlier than the date I have booked.

This leaves me with two choices: take more days off (I still have 3 scheduled), our just do shorter rides. For now I'm opting for shorter rides, I don't like the idea of not riding for an entire day. I'm definitely taking a day off in San Francisco, and although I've been lucky with the weather so far, I might get rained out at some point yet, so those extra days might still come in handy.

As for today, the ride weaved it's way alongside the ocean and through wide open fields as it meandered up and down the coastal cliffs. The climbs were persistent, but relatively short, and I'm feeling considerably more fresh than a few days ago.

Leaving Fort Bragg. Yes, there is no shoulder. Yes, there is no guardrail. And yes, that is a shear drop straight to the ocean.

Here is a video of me on tempting death

Dolores had her work cut out for her on these hills.

Manchester KOA

Day 13: Leggett to Fort Bragg. Trip total: 1537km

A planned, I put in a shorter day today - 76km to Fort Bragg. To be honest, I feel pretty good and wouldn't have had any issues pushing further, but it was nice to finish my riding in the a.m., and I need to trust my decision to take a break.

I was surprised at how cold it was this morning. After burning up yesterday, I was freezing my butt off for the ride today. I was actually enjoying the long climbs today because they kept the blood flowing. This is the only day I've regretted not bringing gloves. The sun never did come out, so the short day was very welcome.

First order of business once I hit town was laundry. The only time I've really done laundry since I left was in American Heritage Campground in Oregon. I attempted a campsite rinse and air-dry cleanse at Burlington Campground two days ago, but it was never sunny enough to dry, so I ended up with damp, not-really-clean clothes packed in with the rest of my gear, which meant everything was now not-really-clean. I was chatting with a hiker at the roadside Bigfoot shop yesterday. She asked me about my trip; where I was going and where I came from, etc. She said I must be in great shape and then squeezed my ass - that's a big no-no. I didn't say anything though, I just smiled knowing that sooner or later she'd have to smell that hand.

Columbi motel in Fort Bragg, where I'm staying today, has an attached laundromat and is a couple of blocks away from a dirty looking 'saloon' which looks like my hangout for the rest of the day.

Tomorrow I'm back on the road to make up some miles until my next real day off in San Francisco this weekend.

Climbing out of Leggett

Arriving in Fort Bragg

Day 12: Weott to Leggett. Trip total: 1461km

South Fork Eel River

Wow, today really kicked the crap outta me. I had a modest 119km ride planned for today. It involved two separate 1000ft climbs and a general uphill ride for the entire day.

I knew it wouldn't be easy, but I had a nice early start, and it was technically shorter than the rides I'd been doing over the past few days.

Although I started early, I took my sweet time getting out of the Avenue of the Giants because it was such a great place to ride.

Once I re-entered the 101, I lost the cool shade of the redwoods and was immediately pounded with unrelenting sun and heat. It was a freeway for much of the stretch and there was no tree cover along the shoulder to provide any shade. Add to the heat the fact that it was a steady series of small climbs for the entire morning, and I was not only exhausted, but way behind schedule.

I hoped to be in Leggett by 11am and power through the two long ascents before noon, and then will myself over the next 25km into Westport to end my day. By the time I got to Leggett I was 2 hours late, in the thick of the hottest time of day, and I found myself weaving as I rode - I was completely exhausted.

This day didn't look too bad on paper, but I think the heat, the steady climb, and my lack of days off just caught up to me. I got through 74km today, but it felt so much longer. I'm tempted to take a day off, but I think I'll compromise and just do another short day tomorrow.

On a positive note, I'm at 1465km for the trip, which by my schedule puts me halfway to San Diego!

Awoken by Blue Jays

Leaving the Giants

Found him

So long, 101. It was a pleasure riding you, but it's time to lose a couple of digits.

Day 11:Orick to Weott. trip total: 1379km

I noticed a fair amount of flat(ish) terrain over the next 160km so I figured I'd try and plough through it today. Most of the ride was along the 101 freeway, so not exactly picturesque, but very efficient for riding.

The scenery really opened up once I hit the Avenue of the Giants. I can't really explain what it was like to ride through such gigantic trees on a two lane road - I felt very out of place riding in that environment, like I wasn't supposed to be there. Everything around me was so immense that the road barely registered as a hiccup in the environment. Anyway, I'll let the pictures do the talking.

Video of me speeding through Endor

This is not an elk farm, just wild elk doing their thing.

Dolores hiding underneath a Giant

Avenue of the Giants

The Giants looking out for cyclists

Burlington Campground